Kojawan
Level 23, 225 Edgware Road, London W2 1JU
Telephone: 020 8088 0111
London is full of great restaurants, so to stand out and survive in this cut throat world you need something different, and Kojawan does that in spades. It is a lovely breath of fresh air just near to Edgware Road tube station, and not only is its differentiator the fusion of Korean, Japanese and Taiwanese food (yes its letters from each that gives the restaurant its name), but the other is its use of manga sci-fi décor and amazing views looking out over London.
Kojawan is a marvelous mix of exceptions that probably shouldn’t work if you looked at them on paper, but chefs Omar Romero (formerly of Rhodes Twenty Four) and Bjorn van der Horst (The Greenhouse) have managed to take a number of eclectic ideas and styles and have married them together into a memorable experience which you really need to experience at least once.
Your first anomaly hits you when you leave the tube and after 100 yards enter the ultra-corporate lobby of the Hilton Metropole. This is just about the furthest environment away from where you would expect a quirky Asian Fusion restaurant, but just as you think you are in the wrong place you spot a set of footprints leading across the foyer to a set of lifts that will take you to the 23rd floor where Kojawan awaits. As you leave the lifts a spiral staircase stretches away from you leading up to Kojawan, a seductively cool 21st century izakaya, (a Japanese gastropub) which as it’s on the 23rd floor has an amazing view of London stretching out as far as you can see. With each step you take up the stairs you are one step closer to a unique experience where hi-tech futuristic décor reigns. Modish furnishings, manga graphics, wall tv’s showing bespoke manga videos and multiple artwork gives a seductive futuristic look which is unique, as far as I know, in London.
Once seated the next anomaly hits you in the form of the menu. I am fairly accustomed to reading menus, but this one was not an ordinary one (I was beginning to see a trend here about being different!) as the order of things and dishes are mixed up. Having had some translation of the menu from the extremely helpful staff we started with the Booze Food section, picking the Sesame Crackers with a pork mince dip (£4) and Spicy Crab Dumplings, chilli and ginger dip (£9). The crackers were crisp and were accompanied by a lovely rich meaty sauce, and the light tangy crab was encased in a light batter, a perfect start to the meal. Looking again through the maze that is the menu, we came across the To Start or To Share section, and selected a Prawn Cocktail, Avocado, Seaweed and Toasted Brioche (£13), and the Stone Bass Poke, Shiso, Jalapeno and Sake (£13) which came with sticky rice. I love restaurants that stimulate all of your senses, and Kojawan does just that, with the meaty prawns sitting on a bed of cool and fresh avocado and textured seaweed in a V shaped bowl standing proudly on ice. After this we turned our attention to the Charcoal Oven section and plumped for a generous offering of Charred Octopus bathing in a smoky red pepper oil (£14), which was taken to a new level with a dash of lemon. Our other selection was the Sticky Pork Belly with Jalapeno Ponzu (£15) which matched the sweet soft melting pork with a zing from the Jalapenos. Portions are generous so it was with increasing trepidation that we were presented with our main courses which for me was Fat Noodles (£15), which was an Asian twist on Spaghetti Vongole, with an abundance of clams and parmesan and Bonito dry fish flakes that appear to dance under the influence of the heat from the dish (worth choosing just to see what I am describing as it was incredible and had my wife fascinated!). My wife chose the Pork-Green Onion “Egg Cake” with Parmesan Cream and Iberico Ham Flakes (£15) which was a lovely example of a Japanese savory pancake.
Dessert or the Sweet Spot in Kojawan speak, were truly marvellous, and finished off a memorable evening, and I am sure that other choices are good, but the PanTako (£9) and Slushy Bubble Tea (£7), are a must. The Pantako is a fluffy light pancake crammed with White Chocolate and Berries and the sharpness of the fruit competed bravely with the smooth creaminess of the chocolate, whilst the Slushy Bubble Tea was a slushy with a difference. The difference was rather than artificial colourings providing the taste here, strawberries swam in the freshest crispest mango flavoured ice you could wish for.
London is a wonderful mix of races, religions and identities, and for the first time I have visited a restaurant which mirrors this diverse and vibrant city, by marrying styles and tastes effortlessly, and all with a truly breathtaking view. What more could you ask for?