HMS Belfast 
Of course I have always noticed HMS Belfast, moored on the south side of The Thames; indeed you could hardly miss it, being such an imposing sight as you wander down the banks of the Thames towards Tower Bridge, but, I have never been on board! Everyone I have spoken to has enjoyed their visit, so along with the kids, we were set to discover the fascinating story of this impressive warship, and find out what life would have been like on board.
Ironically, as I write this, it is the D-Day 70th Anniversary. On 6 June, 1944, HMS Belfast reportedly fired the first shots on D-Day, the most significant campaign fought by the western Allies during the Second World War. She is a symbolic reminder of the events, which led to victory in Europe on 8 May, 1945.
HMS Belfast is the most significant surviving Second World War Royal Navy warship, with a history that extends to the Arctic convoys, D-Day, the Cold War, Korea and beyond. Moored between London Bridge and Tower Bridge, HMS Belfast tells the story of life on board and explores how war affects and impacts on the morale, resilience and determination of a ship’s community. It was fascinating to take in the ship’s nine decks and see what life was like for the 950-strong crew who served on her.
We enjoyed the Gun Turret Experience, which offers a real insight into what fighting at sea would have been like. Overlooking the back of the ships, or Quarterdeck, is one of HMS’s Triple Gun Turrets. Lights, audio, projections and movement, recreates the experience, highlighting the hectic and cramped conditions that would have seen twenty-six men in this confined space at any one time.
HMS Belfast could once be controlled from the Operations Room, the nerve centre and brain of the entire ship. We could imagine what this would have been like as the Operations Room features interactive displays and games that appeal to kids and adults alike! The Operations Room's rotating radar screens have been recreated for the first time since the ship was operational, giving a sense of the movement and urgency of the room, and there are two large touch screen interactive games based on the real-life Pony Express exercise of 1961 which involved 60 warships, 20,000 naval personnel and 6,000 US, British and Australian troops off North Borneo in the South China Sea.
Within the main exhibition decks, ‘Life on Board’ is a fascinating overview of what the men on board would have experienced. From sleeping (in hammocks) to the tuck shop, dining rooms, surgery, and dentist, it’s all there. My favourite was the punishment cells. You could be sent there for all sorts of misdemeanors, including falling asleep on duty. You can climb inside and sit on the hard bench that served as a bed to really imagine how it might feel to be locked in such a confined space, at sea, with no natural light. The audio guide features the voice of one such seaman who tells the amusing story of his confinement. A visit to the kitchens is also a must. I pitied the poor kitchen staff who would have had to peel all those onions!
Again, be sure to pick up an audio guide and discover what it was like to eat, sleep and work on board during D-Day; from the heat of the boiler room, to the cramped conditions of the gun turrets and the thrilling heights of the flag deck. Like the Churchill War Roomsthey are extremely informative and really help to enhance the experience; it’s like having your own personal guide.
There are a number of free family activities (included in general admission price) to enjoy over the summer months. These include ‘Cracking Codes’ where you can intercept messages; map hazards on a sea chart; make up your own secret code; and ‘Tattoo T-Shirts’ where children can design their very own t-shirt, inspired by traditional Navy tattoos, to commemorate the 70th Anniversary of D-Day. Also running to the end of the year is a D-Day Family Trail. If you prefer to be guided around the ship by a real expert, private tours are available to book.
Our own children found it a fascinating place, and enjoyed the opportunity to clamber over the deck, climb the steep stairs, descend into the depths of the boiler room and experience the gun turrets! We all learned a lot, and there is plenty to see, making this a great attraction for the entire family. It may be the only time I get to sit in the Captain’s chair, but I very much enjoyed it whilst I was there!
Open Daily: Winter 2013–14 1 November – 28 February, 10am – 5pm. (Closed 24 – 26 December) Summer 2014 1 March – 31 October, 10am – 6pm. Last entry an hour before closing.
Admission*: £15.50 Adults; £12.40 Concessions (Senior, Student, Disabled); Children (under 16) Free; Special rates for groups of 15 plus. * Please note entry prices include a voluntary donation, making a valuable contribution to the care and conservation of this historic site.
For further information visit: www.iwm.org.uk
